In perfumery, the accord is the pooling of different raw materials, balanced and harmonised to create a unique scent, defining the soul of the fragrance. There are two different types of accord: the simple accord and the complex accord. The simple accord is made up of a maximum of 6 to 10 ingredients. When a student-perfumer practices assembling a few raw materials in order to reproduce a precise and identified scent, such as a rose scent for example, they will be able to do this with 5 ingredients. This is called a simple accord. The complex accord is made up of more than 10 ingredients and requires more expertise from the perfumer to assemble correctly. In this blog post, we will explore 7 different accords in perfumery.
1. The floral accord
The floral accord is probably the most popular and well-known accord in perfumery. It is used in a huge range of different fragrance types, from light and fresh scents to heavier and more sensual ones. To create a floral accord, a perfumer will choose a selection of different flowers that they want to highlight. For example, they might choose to focus on rose, jasmine and tuberose. From there, they will add other raw materials that will support and enhance the floral notes.
2. The woody accord
The woody accord is another very popular type of accord used in perfumery. It is often used in masculine scents, but can also be used in unisex and feminine fragrances. To create a woody accord, a perfumer will choose a selection of different woods that they want to highlight. For example, they might choose to focus on cedarwood, sandalwood and vetiver. From there, they will add other raw materials that will support and enhance the woody notes.
3. The fresh accord
The fresh accord is often used in light and refreshing scents. To create a fresh accord, a perfumer will choose a selection of different fresh ingredients that they want to highlight. For example, they might choose to focus on lemon, bergamot and grapefruit. From there, they will add other raw materials that will support and enhance the fresh notes.
4. The aquatic accord
The aquatic accord is often used in light and refreshing scents, as well as some heavier and more sensual ones. To create an aquatic accord, a perfumer will choose a selection of different water-based ingredients that they want to highlight. For example, they might choose to focus on seaweed, water lily and marine notes. From there, they will add other raw materials that will support and enhance the aquatic notes.
5. The spicy accord
The spicy accord is often used in heavier and more sensual scents. To create a spicy accord, a perfumer will choose a selection of different spices that they want to highlight. For example, they might choose to focus on pepper, ginger and cloves. From there, they will add other raw materials that will support and enhance the spicy notes.
6. The oriental accord
The oriental accord is often used in heavier and more sensual scents. To create an oriental accord, a perfumer will choose a selection of different Oriental ingredients that they want to highlight. For example, they might choose to focus on amber, incense and myrrh. From there, they will add other raw materials that will support and enhance the Oriental notes.
7. The gourmand accord
The gourmand accord is often used in sweeter scents. To create a gourmand accord, a perfumer will choose a selection of different sweet ingredients that they want to highlight. For example, they might choose to focus on chocolate, vanilla and caramel. From there, they will add other raw materials that will support and enhance the gourmand notes.
Top note: the first fragrance impression of a perfume.
Middle note: the main body of a perfume.
Base note: the final lingering scent of a perfume.
Headspace technology: allows perfumers to capture the fragrance of an ingredient, without having to physically process it. This gives them a wider range of materials to work with.
Absolute: also known as an essence, this is a concentrated extract of an ingredient, typically obtained through solvent extraction.
CO2 extract: also known as supercritical fluid extraction, this is a type of absolute that uses carbon dioxide as the solvent. It is considered to be more gentle than other methods, and so preserves more of the delicate aromatic molecules.
Concrete: also known as an oleoresin, this is a solid or semi-solid extract of an ingredient, typically obtained through solvent extraction.
Distillation: a process that uses heat and pressure to separate the different volatile molecules in an ingredient.
Enfleurage: a process that uses fats to absorb the fragrance of an ingredient.
Expression: a process that uses pressure to release the essential oils from an ingredient.
Extraction: a process that uses solvents to remove the aromatic molecules from an ingredient.
Maceration: a process that uses time and heat to extract the aromatic molecules from an ingredient.
Percolation: a process that uses gravity to slowly drip solvent over an ingredient, in order to extract its aromatic molecules.
Solvent extraction: a type of extraction that uses solvents to remove the aromatic molecules from an ingredient.
Steam distillation: a type of distillation that uses steam to separate the different volatile molecules in an ingredient.
Supercritical fluid extraction: also known as CO2 extract, this is a type of absolute that uses carbon dioxide as the solvent. It is considered to be more gentle than other methods, and so preserves more of the delicate aromatic molecules.
Tincture: an extract of an ingredient that has been soaked in alcohol.
Zests: the outermost layer of peel from citrus fruits. This is where the majority of the essential oils are found.
Accords are an essential part of perfumery, and understanding them is key to being able to create your own unique fragrances. Do you have a favourite accord? Let us know in the comments below!
Musk ketone is a chemical compound that is used in perfumery. It has a sweet, floral scent, and is often used in fragrances for women.
Methyl cinnamate is a chemical compound that is used in perfumery. It has a sweet, spicy scent, and is often used in fragrances for men.
Linalool is a chemical compound that is used in perfumery. It has a floral, citrusy scent, and is often used in fragrances for both men and women.
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